ISSUE FLAGS for THIRD PLACE

Hello, this is Nisiwaki from THIRD PLACE.

 

We had ISSUETHINGS create special slacks exclusively for THIRD PLACE.

 

 

 

 

ISSUETHINGS is a Japanese brand, and we started carrying their products from the 26SS season.

Although this is the first time I'm writing about ISSUETHINGS on the blog, they have already become an indispensable presence here.

 

Before introducing the slacks that will be unveiled this time, please allow me to tell you a lot about ISSUETHINGS.

 

 

 

 

The other day, the three members of Third Place met with designer Watanabe-san.

There were two main reasons for this. First, when we expressed our desire to learn more about ISSUETHINGS, Watanabe-san offered to "personally guide us through the dyeing and sewing factories where I usually make clothes."

The second reason was to photograph the custom-made slacks at Watanabe-san's studio.

 

 

Watanabe-san is based in Kawasaki City, Kanagawa Prefecture, so we headed to the nearest station, and he picked us up by car.

During the car ride, I asked several questions that I had wanted to ask him directly.

 

(Nisiwaki)

It might be a bit late to ask, but could you tell me what inspired you to start ISSUETHINGS?

(Watanabe)

Actually, it had been my dream to become a fashion designer since junior high school.

However, the path to starting my own brand was slower compared to others.

 

 

(Nisiwaki)

Could you elaborate?

(Watanabe)

First, after graduating from high school, I went to an art university where I studied graphic design. Looking back now, it might have been better to choose a fashion design school to learn how to make clothes. However, because the high school I attended was an environment where students typically went to university, I also aimed for university. Among the options, I chose an art university because it was close to what I wanted to do and I was interested in it.

However, after graduating from university, I joined an advertising agency. I worked in a field different from fashion.

After a few years of working, I suddenly realized something.

I thought, "I've come so far from what I really wanted to do."

So, to pursue my original dream of becoming a fashion designer, I quit my job and enrolled in Bunka Fashion College.

After graduating, I started ISSUETHINGS at the age of 29.

When I tried to hold my first exhibition, it coincided with the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, which was a stressful time. But I decided to start with the mindset that if it didn't work out after a year or two, I would quit.

 

 

 

 

(Nisiwaki)

It's been seven years since you started the brand and became a designer. Looking back on your journey so far, what do you value most as a designer now? I'd like to hear about it.

(Watanabe)

It's putting creation first, even if it means pushing myself to the limit, rather than prioritizing my personal happiness. And I want to send as many clothes into the world as possible.

 

 

 

(Nisiwaki)

What is ISSUETHINGS aiming for now?

(Watanabe)

The 26SS season collection, which Nisiwaki-san first came to see, was a turning point for the brand, bringing about a different kind of change.

Specifically, what's important for the brand now is to create high-quality items from good fabrics, while also focusing on and creating products that usually don't see the light of day, such as what are called "B-grade" items.

I don't necessarily aim to do both.

I naturally think this way because I genuinely believe both are excellent.

 

 

 

 

 

While we were talking, we arrived at the dye shop.

 

When I heard "Right now, they're bleaching one of our 26AW shirts at this dye shop," we excitedly went inside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here, the processing is decided, this machine is used in this way, and the factory manager dyes it by hand.

 

Designer Watanabe-san himself explained various things to us.

 

The factory manager's comment, "Watanabe-kun is one of our employees," was particularly striking, and it became clear that they have a relationship built on trust, with him frequently visiting the site.

 

He thoroughly understands the clothes he makes and also values the people who create them with him.

 

 

I was so impressed by the trust he had earned from the people on the production floor and Watanabe-san's approach to clothing (to the point where he even knew where the ice cream was in the fridge!), it felt like he knew too much, lol.

 

 

He explained that ISSUETHINGS uses this dye shop when they need difficult or particular dyeing processes.

 

We were even shown items before and after processing, which made it clear how they are completed.

 

And this shirt is not yet complete with this process.

 

He said, "It goes back to the sewing shop to attach the front buttons," and then added, "It's close by, so let's go together," and guided us to the sewing shop next.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My honest impression upon arriving was how small the place was compared to what I had imagined.

 

I had vaguely assumed there would be several people sewing, but then I heard, "Only one person sews here." I was surprised.

 

In larger places, several people divide the parts and sew them to complete a product, but here, one person completes everything from start to finish, so they can't handle a large volume.

 

The president told us, "There was a time when I thought about closing this place, but then I met Watanabe-kun, and we've continued ever since."

 

 

 

 

He continued, "The person sewing here is also getting on in years, and I don't know how long they can continue, so we'll keep going as long as we can. So, please bear with us." My heart was deeply moved when he said that.

 

 

I was reminded that the clothes we have now are not something to be taken for granted.

 

 

Next to the workbench hung a completed ISSUETHINGS shirt, and being there in person, I truly felt the thought and care put into each piece.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And in the back, Watanabe-san had a favorite spot, which he also showed us.

 

"These are precious fabrics collected by the first president of this place."

 

There were amazing cashmere, never-before-seen patterns, and even fabrics used by luxury fashion houses, all gathered together.

It was an enjoyable time imagining what kind of clothes could be made with these fabrics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Both factories we visited today are in Kanagawa, and Watanabe-san's studio is also nearby.

 

"A major reason I chose to locate my studio nearby is its proximity to the factories. If I'm curious, I can immediately go and check things out, and by visiting the factories, I can also learn more about clothes."

 

"Precisely because I became a designer later in life, I want to engage with clothing and learn more about it than anyone else."

 

 

I could feel the warmth of ISSUETHINGS, the love for clothes and the stoicism, which I couldn't discern through digital means.

 

Watanabe-san always answers questions straightforwardly and casually.

Even when I asked him various questions, he gave concise, pure, and powerful answers, which was very pleasant to hear.

 

 

More than words, when you're with him, his actions convey his sincerity and passion.

And it's wonderful how he naturally earns the support and deep affection of those around him.

 

 

 

 

 

It was truly great that all the Third Place members could go on this factory tour....!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And besides the brand, I also asked this question:

 

 

 

(Nisiwaki)

How do you view THIRD PLACE, Watanabe-san?

Also, you accepted this project even before we officially started our business relationship. I'd like to know your reasons for agreeing and participating.

(Watanabe)

When I first went to Third Place, I especially liked the atmosphere.

And I accepted because I was very drawn to how the clothes of senior brands I respect, like yoke and herill, were curated differently from other stores.

Also, the first place that started carrying ISSUETHINGS was 1LDK when Miyoshi-san was still there, and I owed him a debt of gratitude that I couldn't fully repay.

 

 

I first met Watanabe-san last year.

 

Although there were many places I had worked, people I had worked with, and mutual connections, I knew of Watanabe-san's existence but had never met him directly.

 

The catalyst for our meeting was last year in Paris at an Another Aspect dinner. I had a conversation about ISSUETHINGS with Coco-san, a buyer from Esmeralda Serviced Department, and she told me, "You two are definitely a match!" As soon as I returned to Japan, Coco-san introduced us.

 

When we first met, it seemed Watanabe-san also knew about me, and it felt like, "Finally, we meet!" (laughs).

 

 

 

From there, I think we talked a lot about our past work, clothes, and our philosophies.

 

Of course, human connections were a factor in our meeting, but the ultimate reason for choosing the selection was simply that the "clothes" were good. They were clothes I wanted to wear.

 

And I resonated with many aspects of how Third Place values and approaches "people," and I truly wanted to meet him and work together in this space.

 

 

 

And because I felt something when I saw the ISSUETHINGS collection, I requested this project even before we officially started carrying the brand.

 

 

 

In tomorrow's blog, I will thoroughly introduce the special slacks unique to THIRD PLACE.